Dogs Attack Goats

03 July, 2016rodster385Comments (0)


I shot a dog the other day...I wish it hadn't come to that.
For thirteen years I've 'done the right thing' and called the local sheriff's department. Those of you who visit the Texas Goat website frequently have read several accounts of the ongoing problem we've had with the people living in the doublewide across the cotton field and their pack of dogs that are allowed to roam the area. In the course of those thirteen years, we have lost numerous chickens, ducks, and geese to these predators. When this pack of dogs scaled a gate in our backyard and killed my six-year-old daughter's easter duck, 'Big Red Clippard,' a few years back, I sat and held the sobbing child, my heart breaking because her's was broken. When this pack of dogs killed my wife's little Chihuahua two years ago when he trotted back to the barn to check on the goats, I held my heart broken wife in my arms and tried to console her. When this pack of dogs attacked our goat herd last October and injured half of our pregnant does, two severely, I found an ache in my chest. When they came back a week later and killed one of the injured does, two months away from delivering what I thought would probably be triplets, I buried her and sold the rest of my does. I kept four bucks to keep the weeds under control. When I stepped out on the back porch a few weeks later and found our cow dog lying still, bruised and bleeding, I picked him up and carried him into the house. The dogs had attacked him, I assume while he attempted to protect our property. These dogs had mauled him severely and had literally ripped his legs to shreds. We had doubts that he would survive, but he gradually regained his strength and his wounds healed. When I got up the other morning and saw four dogs in our pasture chasing our buck, Blue Gainey's Ben, a seven-year-old South African Boer with a pedigree that reads like the Ring of Honor at Texas Stadium...I grabbed my gun. If I could have shot all four dogs, I would have. I got one.
Keep in mind that after each and every dog attack for thirteen years I had 'done the right thing' and reported the incidents to the Sheriff's Department. All except the last one.
A Sheriff's deputy knocked on my door the next morning. He stated that the people at the doublewide had called. The dog had made it home before he died, and the deputy accused me of shooting the dog in his own back yard. He said 'judging from the amount of blood' and the wound which 'lined up' with our barn, he concluded I had shot the dog from all the way across the cotton field. I concluded he had watched too many episodes of CSI. I printed out a picture of the dead doe, handed it to him, and told him to take it to the people at the doublewide...and tell them , "I'll shoot every dog that comes across my property, just like I did this one." He did. And I will.
But it shouldn't have to come to that. There are no laws in the state of Texas that allow law enforcement personnel to act on these attacks. All they can do is recommend that we take the dog owners to civil court (small claims) and try to be compensated for our losses. They can also 'council' the dog owners about restraining their dogs, which is for the most part, just 'blowing smoke.' It's time to stop blowing smoke and do something about it!

Texas Currently Has No Laws Governing Dog Attacks Against Other Animals
Neither does numerous other states. Yet dog attacks against people, goats, horses, and other animals make headlines on a daily basis. Now is the time for us...FOR YOU to take action. This year is an election year. Every public elected official is eager to hear you out, from your county sheriff and other local officials, to your state legislators. When the next potential candidate knocks on your door soliciting your vote, invite them in and address this issue. Find out where that sheriff-wanna-be stands regarding your rights to protect your property and your livestock. Question that soon to be county judge about his feelings on this issue. Most importantly, write, call or e-mail the people who make the laws in your state, those state senators and congressmen, and voice your concerns about the lack of laws protecting your property and livestock against dog attacks.

Calling The Vet

03 July, 2016rodster385Comments (0)


If you have a local vet that will cooperate with you over the phone, it may be possible to avoid a veterinary bill, if your goat doc is willing to give his advice or opinion without actually seeing the goat. At the very least, he may offer to prescribe medication (which may mean a trip to his office, but will alleviate the actual chore of either loading a sick goat in a trailer or having the vet make a house call,) Have the following knowledge of the situation before calling a vet ;
Rectal Temperature of goat ....Normal is between 101º and 103.5º F
Is the goat ruminating? (Chewing Cud)
Check the mouth, is it warm and wet or cold and dry?
Is the goat having normal bowel and bladder function?
Is the goat eating and drinking?
Exactly what feed has the goat been in contact with in the last 48 hours?
How long has the goat been ill?
What age is the goat?
Is your goat a Doe, Buck or Wether?
If a Doe, is she bred?
What is her Due date?
If she has recently kidded, when and how many kids did she have?
Is the goat up and standing/walking or is the animal DOWN?
If the goat is Down, when did it go down?
What vaccines has the goat had and when?
What dewormer has been used , how much and when?
What other medications has been administered to the goat, how much and when?
Is the goat head pressing? (standing with its head against a wall or fence)
Is the goat grinding it' teeth?
Is the goat stargazing? (Looking aimlessly into the sky)
Is the goat paralyzed? If so, where? (legs, face, etc)

Tattooing Goats

18 September, 2015rodster385Comments (0)

Tattooing is not the horrible chore that some producers like to make you believe. If you can organize your tattoo digits and have a good person to help you, tattooing can be simple. It is increasingly important to tattoo your goats. The American Dairy Goat Association requires all goats to be tattooed and many breed associations are following suit. The Scrapie eradication program will accept tattoos as identification if they are registered with the state as being specific to your herd. Ear tags often get pulled out and cause a lot of grief. Tattoos, on the other hand, can be a great form of identification if applied correctly.

The most important point of tattooing is to make sure you are putting the tattoo in the correct ear. Some organizations will tell you to put a farm tattoo in the right ear and the individual number in the left ear. Be sure you are standing behind the goat and using the GOATS right or left ear, not facing the goat and getting mirror results. Read the breed or organization guidelines before tattooing any animals. Once the tattoo is applied it is difficult to change.


I like to use the .300 pet tattoo pliers and digits or the 5/16 inch pliers and digits. You can get a tattoo kit at a local feed store, or out of a supply catalog. Be sure you get the correct digits for the pliers. Expect to pay between $20.00 and $40.00 for a tattoo kit. Many kits will come with one set of digits but you may need more than one set. One set of tattoo digits will cost between $10.00 and $30.00.


Follow these steps to insure a good tattoo on your animals.
1. Clean the ear(s) before tattooing. The tattoo will be more legible and there will be less of a chance of infection if the site is clean.
2. Place the correct number/letters into the pliers and tighten. ALWAYS check the tattoo in a piece of paper or a paper towel before tattooing the animal. This eliminates a lot of headaches after the tattoo is put in backwards or upside down.
3. Smear tattoo ink over the spot you plan to tattoo. Green ink is my preference. It works better for animals with dark ears or tail. Try to make sure there are no blood veins, warts, or scar tissue in the area to be tattooed. Remember to hold the pliers so that you are tattooing with the needles going into the inside of the ear and that the pliers are held upright so the tattoo will not be upside-down!
4. Squeeze the tattoo pliers closed over the inked area in a firm, quick motion. You will not be able to see the imprints very well at that point and there may be some blood, but don't worry about that. Sometimes with now pliers and digits the needles will go through the ear and you will have to peel the ear off of the needles. It happens, don't get excited. Immediately ink the area again and rub the ink in with your fingers or gently scrub the ink in with an old, SOFT bristle toothbrush.
5. Clean the tattoo pliers and the digits using a mild dish soap and very hot water. I like to boil mine or disinfect them before I put them away. If you choose to disinfect use a mild form, so the next time you tattoo you don't end up with a chemical burn.
6. Let the ear heal undisturbed. Some tattoos may take 2 to 3 weeks to heal and others heal in a week. Always try to tattoo at least a month ahead of the show so your goat's tattoo can be read without causing discomfort to the goat.
7. If you have a LaMancha goat you will be tattooing the tail web. You will use the same technique. The biggest difference will be the amount of tissue being squeezed in the tattoo pliers. Use the same method, and you should get a nice tattoo.
8. If you have a dark eared goat, it's a good idea to keep a flashlight in your show box, if you intend to show. Shine the light from behind the ear, and it will be much easier to read the tattoo.
Some tattoos will fade over time. It may be necessary to reapply the tattoo. You will follow the same procedure, but be sure to check with your breed registry for rules regarding re-application of tattoos.

Showing GoatsTips

18 September, 2015rodster385Comments (0)

Like any other activity, some people are natural showmen. All exhibitors can learn techniques and improve their showmanship skills. Showmanship can be broken down into two parts: pre-show preparation and show ring.

Pre-Show Preparation

The amount of time required to train a goat to show depends on several things: the goat, physical size and experience, and the intensity of training. Some goats are easy to gentle and learn how to show, while other goats are more difficult and nearly impossible to train. However, most goats can be trained provided enough time and effort is spent. Unlike lambs, goats are shown with a halter or some type of collar. It is the authors opinions that a collar works best.

Halter breaking is an excellent way to start the gentling process, especially if an exhibitor has several goats. Collars or inexpensive rope halters can be made or purchased from certain feed and livestock supply stores. Goats should be caught, haltered or collared and tied to the fence. If using a collar, you can snap the goat's collar to the fence. Care should be taken not to tie them where they can hurt themselves. It is very important that tied goats not be left unattended. After the goat begins to gentle down, the exhibitor can start teaching him to lead. Use the collar or halter to keep the goats head up while you teach him to lead. It is important that you have someone to assist you by pushing the goat from behind whenever he stops. Teach the goat to lead with its front shoulder even with your leg. The goats head should be out in front of your body.

The next step in the training process is for the exhibitor to lead the goat and properly set him up. Set the front legs up first, then place the hind legs, keeping the body and neck straight and the head in a high, proud position by using the halter or collar. The exhibitor should remain standing at all times. Do not squat or kneel.

After the training is complete, the exhibitor may wish to practice showing his or her goat. The exhibitor can set up his or her goat and show him while someone else handles the goat, making sure the goat looks good. If the goat responds properly, return him to the pen and do not overwork him. Exhibitors need to realize that they may have only 15-20 seconds to actually show their goat in a show. If the goat does not show properly when the judge handles him, you may get overlooked.

Show Ring

Assuming that prior planning, selecting, feeding, fitting, training, and grooming have been done, showing is one of the most important ingredients. Showmanship can't be emphasized too strongly! It is often the difference between winning and losing.

The exhibitor should be mentally and physically ready to enter the show ring for competition. By completing the pre-show activities exhibitors should have confidence that they can do an effective job showing their goat. They should be neat in appearance but not overdressed. Exhibitors should not wear hats or caps in the show ring.

Before the show begins, exhibitors should go look at the show ring and become familiar with it. Once the judge begins, if the exhibitor is not in the first class, he or she should watch the judge and see how he works the goats in the show ring.

When the appropriate class is called, exhibitors should take their goats to the show ring. They should be courteous to fellow exhibitors at all times. If the ring stewards do not line up the goats, the exhibitors should find a good place where their goats will look their best. Avoid corners of the ring and leave plenty of space between your goat and others. Set your goat up, making sure the legs are set properly and keep the body, neck and head in a straight line, with the goat's head up with alert. Always show with both hands. Do not put your free hand behind your back, use your free hand to keep the goat's head and body straight.

A good showmen must be alert and know where the judge is at all times. Always remember to keep your eye on the judge! Remain calm and concentrate on showing. In large classes it may be 10 minutes or longer before the judge handles your goat so you must be patient and let your goat relax.

Set you goat up and be ready before the judge gets to you. Be careful not to cover your goat up with your body and block the judges view. Always keep your goat between you and the judge.

After the judge handles your goat, he will usually step back and look at him. Be sure to keep his head up and body, neck, and head in a straight line. Keep one eye on the judge and one eye on the goat. It is your responsibility to watch the judge and not miss a decision.

If your goat does not get pulled for class placing the first time, don't give up. Continue to keep him set up, remain alert, and keep one eye on the judge. If your goat gets pulled, circle him out of the line and follow the directions of the ring steward, making sure to continue to keep an eye on the judge. Move your goat with style and at a steady, moderate pace.

Remember to keep showing at all times. The class is not over until the ribbons are passed out. Always be a good sport and shake the hand of the class winner. Hopefully it will be you. Be a humble winner and a graceful loser.

Showing Goats

18 September, 2015rodster385Comments (0)

1 Why Show?
Dairy goat shows can be interesting and educational, and goat owners
enjoy the opportunity to compete with their animals. Although showing
involves a great deal of time, energy, and extra stress on the animals,
there are many positive aspects to attending shows as an exhibitor or a

2 Dairy goat shows can be a good learning experience. Many people show
to get an opinion of their animals from a judge who is objective and
experienced in appraising conformation. Listening to the judges'
reasons for making placings helps in learning about your animals.
Acting as a ringside ''judge'' and comparing your placings and reasons
with those of the show judge helps develop your eye for desirable type.

3 People enjoy being competitive with their animals. Competition
against other breeders helps you learn how to select animals and
present them at their best. If the animals do well at the show, owners
gain confidence in their animal husbandry skills and an increased
awareness of the relative worth of their animals.

4 Showing is a favorite activity of 4-H members with dairy goat
projects because it is a good way to determine progress they are making
as animal breeders. Showing also helps develop sportsmanship,
management skills, the ability to display an animal to its best
advantage, and an appreciation of good livestock.

5 Goat shows are fun socially and provide a good opportunity to meet
other breeders and visit with friends. Exhibiting your goats at shows
is good advertisement for your herd and can lead directly to sales,
either at the show or in the future.

6 Dairy goat shows are also an effective way to promote dairy goats
and the use of goat products because the show animals are groomed and
look their best, and breeders are available to answer questions for
show visitors with a developing interest in goats.

7 Getting Ready
There are many things that need to be done once you decide to enter
a goat show. The better prepared that you are, the more you will enjoy
the show.

8 The first thing is to decide which of your animals to show. Be
selective about the animals. Look for animals in your herd that are
correct in conformation and in good condition, neither too fat nor too
thin. Strong, healthy animals will be more competitive, better able to
withstand the stress of travel and the show, and not be a source of
health problems for other goats attending the show.

9 Read the show rules, fill out the entry form completely, and send it
to the specified person on time. If you have questions about the show,
contact the show secretary. It is a good idea to keep a copy of your
show entry so that you have a record of the animals entered and their
classes. Check the health rules for the show and work with your
veterinarian to make sure that you meet the rules.

10 Take some time before to review the parts of the goat and become
familiar with the dairy goat scorecard. The judge's placings and
reasons at the show will be more meaningful if you are aware of the
point differences defined by the scorecard.

11 Fitting
Goat shows are far more relaxed if your animals are groomed and
ready to go when you get to the show. Otherwise, you may end up rushing
at the show stables trying to get your animals clipped and their feet
trimmed with probably hasty results. There is always some last minute
bathing and grooming but it helps if the time-consuming portions of
the job had been done at home.

12 Hooves should be trimmed a few days before the show. Goats can be
clipped from a few days up to 2 to 3 weeks before a show. A number 10
blade is commonly used for clipping the body, while a shorter blade
(number 20 or even number 40) can be used on the udder. The entire body
can be clipped, with the clippers running against the hair, including
whiskers, beard, and hair inside the ears and around the tops of the
hooves. The hair on the tail is squared off below the last bone in the
tail, leaving a triangular tuft of hair at the end of the tail. It is
easier, and usually safer, to clip the udder when it is full of milk.

13 Bathing goats with a mild shampoo before clipping them helps keep
clipper blades sharp. Goats should be rebathed and rinsed well after
clipping to remove loose hair and dandruff. Newly clipped goats,
especially those with light skin, are apt to sunburn and should be
provided with shade or a lightweight coat until the hair grows out a
little and the skin becomes less sensitive. Newly clipped goats are
also sensitive to draft and chills and need to be covered while not in
the show ring.

14 Practicing with your goats at home can result in better behaving
animals in the ring and increased confidence on your part. Animals
should be accustomed to being handled by strangers, especially having
someone else's hand move over their neck, withers, back and sides, and
udder so that they will stand still when being examined by the judge.

15 Chain collars are usually preferred for showing, although narrow
leather collars are also used. Collars should fit correctly, so that
you can control your animal's movements in the ring. It is ideal to
work with your animals ahead of time until they lead readily and
respond quickly to signals. They should move forward with a slight pull
on the collar and stop when you pull slightly up and back. Getting
your animals used to wearing a collar and teaching them to lead and be
tolerant of strangers is important with young stock, because they can
often be stubborn about learning show manners.

16 Horned goats cannot be shown, and goats with large ++++MISSING

17 Feed and Bedding
Some shows will have a supply of hay and straw for sale. Check ahead
of time to see whether such will be available before you decide to
bring your own. Some exhibitors prefer their own hay, so their animals
will not have a change in diet. You need:

-hay feeders
-grain feeders
-water buckets
-bottles and nipples (if you are taking kids)
-salt or trace minerals

18 Equipment -- After you have attended a few shows, you will know
what equipment is useful, including:

-clippers (for last touchups)
-hoof trimmers
-extra collars
-tie ropes
-livestock shampoo
-short hose (for bathing)
-wash bucket
-towels (to dry animals)
-clean cloths (for last cleanups)
-portable milking stand
-paper towels
-udder wash
-teat dip
-milk pail
-goat coats (for the young, and chilly times)
-first aid items, antibiotics,
-disinfectants, bandages, flyspray)
-herd signs (above your pens)
-hammer and nails
-staple gun
-extension cord

19 Personal items -- Many exhibitors prefer to spend the night in the
barn with their animals. Personal items that may be needed include:

-sleeping bag
-folding chair
-clean clothes
-show whites
-toilet articles
-snacks and food
-equipment for cooking

20 What to do at the Show
Goats should be unloaded and settled into pens with bedding, feed,
and water as soon as they arrive at the show, especially if they have
been travelling very far or the weather is unpleasant. Once your
animals are bedded down, you can take your registration and health
papers and check in with the show secretary; unless the show rules
require health checks before unloading. There are usually copies of the
show program available that contain the schedule of classes and special
instructions. Your goats have to be checked prior to the start of the
show by the show veterinarian. He has the authority of dismissing
animals from the show if they are sick or appear to be potential health
problems for other exhibitor's animals.

21 Extra space should be available adjacent to your animals for your
equipment and feed. Exhibitors are responsible for care of their
animals throughout the show, including clean bedding, feed, and fresh
water, as needed. It usually takes goats a while to settle down into
the show routine, especially if they have not been shown before.
Walking your goats around the ring before the show starts helps them
feel more relaxed when it is time for their class.

22 Your goats may need to be bathed at the show prior to their
classes, even if they were bathed earlier at home. Bathing should be
done during the warm part of the day, followed by a thorough drying, to
prevent added stress from chilling. If the weather is cold or
unpleasant, goats can be brushed and spot cleaned with a damp rag,
instead of bathing. Most goats will benefit from a final touchup
cleaning with a damp cloth just prior to being shown. This is a good
time to double check areas that are hard to keep clean, such as hooves,
inside the ears, around the eyes and nose, and under the tail.

23 Showing
In some shows there is a preset milk-out time, usually 12 hours
before the show starts, so that all does are shown at the same length
of time after milking. If not, show your animals with the amount of
milk in the udder that looks the best. Letting the udder overfill can
weaken udder attachments, stress milk-producing tissue, make it
difficult for the judge to determine udder texture, and usually lowers
your show placing.

24 Exhibitors should wear appropriate white clothes to show their
animals, such as clean jeans or slacks and a white shirt or blouse.
Goats should be brought to the ringside a few minutes before start of
their class, so that you are ready to enter the ring as soon as the
class is called. You will need to know the birth date of each of your
animals in the ring, the freshening date and number of lactations for

25 Watching the class ahead of yours will give you an idea of the
judge's procedure and preferred method of lining up animals. When it is
your turn to enter the ring, lead slowly and gracefully in a clockwise
direction. Leave about 3 feet between your goat and that of other
exhibitors when walking around the ring; and about 2 feet between
animals when lined up head to tail or side by side. Stay attentive to
the judge but, at the same time, be aware of your goat and what she is

26 Keep your goat between you and the judge at all times. If you need
to change sides, move around the goat's head and change hands on the
collar. Keep the collar high on the goat's neck, holding it in your
hand at the top of the neck, just behind the ears. This gives you
better control over the animal's movements and keeps her head up high
enough so that she has an attractive carriage.

27 After the goats have walked around the ring a few times, the judge
will ask the exhibitors to form a line with their animals, usually side
by side. When you set your goat up in line, pose her with her feet
squarely under her body and her hind feet slightly spread. It is
usually easiest to set up the hind feet first. You can move the back
feet where you want them by pressing back on the opposite shoulder or
by picking up the leg between the hock and pastern and setting it down
in the desired position.

28 Once you have your goat well placed, let her be. Keep your hands
off your animal as much as possible when she is set up, so that you will
not draw the judge's attention away from your animal to you. Talking
quietly to your goat or lightly rubbing her belly or side nearest you
keeps her alert and contented. Some exhibitors prefer to squat beside
their goat while they are waiting in line. However, do not kneel with
your knees on the ground, and be sure to stand up when the judge
approaches your animal.

29 Be ready to restrain your goat if necessary while the judge
examines her. This can be done in two ways: (1) put your knee in front
of her shoulder so she can't move forward; and (2) grasp a front leg
between the knee and the pastern and flex the leg back against the

30 If the judge asks you to change places in the ring, lead your goat
forward out of the line, up or down the line to the place indicated,
and back through the line, making a U-turn to get back into position.
Do not back your goat into a different position unless the distance is

31 Watch the judge closely, and respond quickly when the judge
indicates the placings in the final line up. Be aware of show
procedures; first and second place winners in each class are usually
expected to remain at ringside to compete for champion. In
ADGA-sanctioned shows, the judge will check tattoos and the show
secretary will check registration papers for all breed champions before
they leave the ring.

32 Conformation of the animal is not considered in showmanship
classes; only how well the animal is prepared and shown. The secret of
good showmanship is to control your animal in such a manner that the
judge sees her at her best but never notices you. Showmanship classes
help teach poise, courtesy, and the ability to stay calm, even under
pressure. They give exhibitors an opportunity to show how well they
can prepare and exhibit goats. They also encourage good husbandry;
animals that can be successfully groomed to look as good as possible for
a show are those that are well fed and cared for, in good health, and
generally of good type.

33 In showmanship classes, the judge looks for exhibitors that
recognize the conformation weaknesses of their animals and show them
effectively to overcome those weaknesses. Exhibitors are usually asked
by the judge to trade animals so that the judge can see how well they
handle strange animals.

34 Guidelines
Although every show is different, the following will make shows
more enjoyable and worthwhile:

-Cooperate with the show officials to the best of your ability.

-Learn the rules of the show and follow them.

-Keep your pens and animals neat and clean at all times.

-Be prepared and willing to answer questions from show visitors
about your goats and goats in general.

-Handle your goats with dignity, pride, and gentleness, both inside
and outside of the show ring.

-Stay calm with troublesome animals; abusiveness is uncalled for.

-Be courteous to the other exhibitors and the judge.

-Restrict conversation in the ring except to respond to the judge or
show officials.

-Respond quickly to requests from the judge, ring steward, and other
show officials.

-Be gracious about accepting the judge's opinion.

-Show your animals the whole time you are in the ring, until the
judge has given his reasons and the class has been dismissed.

-If you have questions about the judging, wait until after the show
is over to talk to the judge.

-Smile and enjoy yourself -- it's part of showmanship.

-Remember that placings at a show are one judge's opinion of how a
certain group of animals compare with each other on a certain day.
Placings of the same animals can be quite different under a
different judge or at a different time, especially with nonmilking

35 TABLE 1. ADGA Dairy Goat Showmanship Score Card

Based on Usual Order of Consideration


Condition and Thriftiness - showing normal growth - neither too fat nor
too thin. 10

Hair clean and properly groomed. Hoofs trimmed and shaped to enable
animal to walk and stand naturally. 10

Neatly disbudded if the animal is not naturally hornless. Clipping -
entire body if weather has permitted, showing allowance to get a
neat coat of hair by show time; neatly trimmed tail and ears. 10

Cleanliness - as shown by a clean body as free from stains as possible,
with special attention to legs, feet, tail area, nose, and ears. 10


Clothes and person neat and clean - white costume preferred. 10


Leading - enter, leading the animal at a normal walk around the ring in
a clockwise direction, walking on the left side, holding the collar
with the right hand. Exhibitor should walk as normally and
inconspicuously as possible. Goat should lead readily and respond
quickly. Lead equipment should consist of a collar or small link
chain, properly fitted. As the judge studies the animal, the
preferred method of leading is to walk alongside on the side away
from the judge. Lead slowly with animal's head held high enough for
impressive style, attractive carriage, and graceful walk. 10

Pose and show an animal so it is between the exhibitor and the judge as
much as possible. Avoid exaggerated positions, such as crossing
behind the goat. Stand or kneel where both judge and animal may be
observed. Pose animal with front feet squarely beneath and hind feet
slightly spread. Where possible, face animal upgrade with her front
feet on a slight incline. Neither crowd other exhibitors nor leave
too much space when leading into a side-by-side position. When judge
changes placing, lead animal forward out of line, down or up to the
place directed then back through the line, finally making a U-turn
to get into position. To step animal ahead - use slight pull on
collar. If the animal steps badly out of place, return her to position
by leading her forward and making a circle back thru your position
in the line. When judge is observing the animal, if she moves out of
position, replace her as quickly and inconspicuously as possible. Be
natural. Overshowing, undue fussing, and maneuvering are objectionable.

Show animal to best advantage, recognizing the conformation faults of
the animal you are leading and striving to help overcome them. 15

Poise, alertness, and courteous attitude are all desired in the show
ring. Showmen should keep an eye on their animals and be aware of
the position of the judge at all times - but should not stare at the
judge. Persons or things outside the ring should not distract the
attention of the showmen. Respond rapidly to requests from judges or
officials, and be courteous and sportsman like at all times,
respecting the rights of other exhibitors. The best showmen will
show the animals at all times - not themselves - and will continue
exhibiting well until the entire class has been placed, the judge
has given his reasons, and he has dismissed the class. 15


Suggested Uniform: Long-sleeved white shirt, regulation white pants, 4-H
or FFA necktie, 4-H or FFA cap (if applicable), with matching shoes
and belt in either black, white, or brown.

36 TABLE 2. ADGA Dairy Goat Score Card for DOES

(Ideals of type and breed characteristics must be considered in using
this card.)

Based on Order of Observation


Attractive individuality revealing vigor; femininity with a harmonious
blending and correlation of parts; impressive style and attractive
carriage; graceful walk.

*Breed Characteristics 5
Color, size, nose structure and ears appropriate for breed.

*Head 5
Medium in length, clean-cut; broad muzzle with large, open nostrils;
lean, strong jaw; full, bright eyes; forehead broad between the

*Shoulder Blades and Topline 8
Shoulder blades - set smoothly against the chest wall and withers,
forming neat junction with the body.
Back - strong and appearing straight with vertebrae well defined.
Loin - broad, strong, and nearly level.
Rump - long, wide and nearly level.
Hips - wide, level with back.
Thurls - wide apart.
Pin bones - wide apart, lower than hips, well defined.
Tail head - slightly above and neatly set between pin bones.

*Legs and Feet 12
Legs - wide apart, squarely set, clean-cut and strong with forelegs
Hind legs - nearly perpendicular from hock to pastern. When viewed
from behind, legs wide apart and nearly straight. Bone flat and
flinty; tendons well defined. Pasterns of medium length, strong and
springy. Hocks are cleanly moulded.
Feet - short and straight, with deep heel and level sole.


Animation, angularity, general openness, and freedom from excess tissue,
giving due regard to period of lactation.
Neck - long and lean, blending smoothly into shoulders and brisket,
clean-cut throat.
Withers - well defined and wedge-shaped with the dorsal process of the
vertebrae rising slightly above the shoulder blades.
Ribs - wide apart; rib bone wide, flat, and long.
Flank - deep, arched, and refined.
Thighs - incurving to flat from the side; apart when viewed from the
rear, providing sufficient room for the udder and its attachments.
Skin - fine textured, loose, and pliable. Hair fine.


Relatively large in proportion to size of the animal, providing ample
digestive capacity, strength, and vigor.

Barrel - deep, strongly supported; ribs wide apart and well sprung; depth
and width tending to increase toward rear of barrel. 12

Heart girth - large, resulting from long, well-sprung foreribs; wide
chest floor between the front legs, and fullness at the point of
elbow. 8


A capacious, strongly attached, well-carried udder of good quality,
indicating heavy production and a long period of usefulness.

Udder; Capacity and Shape - long, wide, and capacious; extended well
forward; strongly attached. 10

Rear attachment - high and wide. Halves evenly balanced and
symmetrical. 5

Fore attachment - carried well forward, tightly attached without pocket,
blending smoothly into body. 6

Texture - soft, pliable, and elastic; free of scar tissue; well
collapsed after milking. 5

Teats - uniform, of convenient length and size, cylindrical in shape,
free from obstructions, well apart, squarely and properly placed, easy
to milk. 4

*Note: 5 points for Breed Characteristics and Head as taught at Training

37 TABLE 3. ADGA Dairy Goat Score Card for BUCKS


Attractive individuality revealing vigor, masculinity with a
harmonious blending and correlation of parts; impressive style and
majestic carriage; graceful and powerful walk.

Breed Characteristics 10
Color, size, nose structure and ears appropriate for breed.

Head 5
Medium in length, clean-cut; broad muzzle with large, open nostrils;
lean, strong jaw; full, bright eyes; forehead broad between the eyes.

Shoulder Blades and Topline 12
Shoulder blades - set smoothly against the chest wall and withers,
forming neat junction with the body.
Back - strong and appearing straight with vertebrae well defined.
Loin - broad, strong and nearly level.
Rump - long, wide nearly level.
Hips - Wide, level with back.
Thurls - wide apart.
Pin bones - wide apart, lower than hips, well defined.
Tail head - slightly above and neatly set between pin bones.
Tail - symmetrical with body.

Legs 18
Wide apart, squarely set, clean-cut and strong with forelegs straight.
Hind legs - nearly perpendicular from hock to pastern. When viewed
from behind legs wide apart and nearly straight. Bone strong, flat
and flinty; tendons well defined. Pasterns of medium length, strong
and springy. Hocks cleanly moulded.
Feet - short and straight, with deep heel and level sole.


Animation, angularity, general openness, and freedom from excess
Neck - medium length, strong and blending smoothly into shoulders and
Withers - well defined and wedge shaped with the dorsal process of the
vertebrae rising slightly above the shoulder blades.
Ribs - wide apart, rib bone wide, flat and long.
Flank - deep, arched and refined.
Thighs - incurving to flat from the side; apart when viewed from rear.
Skin - fine textured, loose and pliable. Hair fine.


Relatively large in proportion to size of the animal, providing ample
digestive capacity, strength and vigor.

Barrel 10
Deep, strongly supported; ribs wide apart and well sprung; depth and
width tending to increase toward rear of barrel.

Heart girth 12
Large, resulting from long, well-sprung foreribs; wide chest floor
between the front legs, and fullness at the point of elbow.


38 TABLE 4. Evaluation of Defects

Slight 1. Broken or wry tail
Slight to 1. Undershot or overshot
serious jaw
depending 2. Close in the hocks
on degree 3. Front, rear or side udder
attachment lacking
4. Separation between halves
of udder
5. Presence of scar tissue
6. Udder of beefy texture
7. Udder with pocket
Moderate 1. Large scurs or stubs NUBIAN
2. Enlarged knees; non- Mature does less than -
disabling lameness Min. height (30 in)
3. Swollen hocks Min. weight (135 lbs)
4. Turned-out or crooked Straight face
5. Teats that are: SAANEN
a. Set close together Mature does less than -
b. Bulbous Min. height (30 in)
c. Extremely large or Min. weight (135 lbs)
d. Pointed sideways TOGGENBURG
e. Uneven in size Mature does less than -
f. Having small streams Min. height (26 in)
or otherwise hard to Min. weight (120 lbs)
milk Few small white spots in
g. Not clearly separated hair of does
from the udder
Mature does less than -
Min. height (28 in)
Min. weight (130 lbs)

Mature does less than -
Min. height (30 in)
Min. weight (135 lbs)
Does with Toggenburg
color and marking
Does - all white color

39 Table 4. Evaluation of Defects (contd.)

Moderate 1. Loose, winged or heavy AMERICAN LAMANCHA
to serious shoulders Roman nose
Depending 2. Narrow chest or pinched
on degree heart girth FRENCH ALPINE
3. Short, shallow or Roman nose
narrow body
4. Low-backed or steep- SAANEN
rumped Roman nose
5. Small-boned for body size
6. Bowed-over front knees TOGGENBURG
or, buck-knees Roman nose
7. Hind legs close together
8. Sprung pasterns
9. Postiness
10.Swollen stifle joints
(All of these more
serious in bucks)
Serious 1. Natural horns (neatly FRENCH ALPINE
disbudded or dehorned - Bucks with Toggenburg
no discrimination) color and markings
2. Udder Bucks - all white color
a. Pendulous
b. Too distended to SAANEN
determine texture 1. Dark cream color
c. Hard or swollen 2. Several small dark
(except in does just spots in hair
d. So uneven that one TOGGENBURG
half is less than 1. Black color in does
half the size of the 2. White stomach (except
other British Toggenburgs)
3. Leaking orifice on does
4. Misplaced orifice 3. Large white spot
(1-1/2" or more in
any direction) on
4. Few small white spots
in hair of bucks

40 Table 4. Evaluation of Defects (contd.)

Very serious 1. Udder lacking in size NUBIAN
and capacity in relation 1. Dished face
to size of doe 2. Barely drooping ears
2. Double orifice in teat
of doe
3. Extra teat or teat(s)
that have been cut off
on does
4. Crooked face on does
5. Very crooked or mal-
formed feet
Disqualif- 1. Total blindness AMERICAN LAMANCHA
ications 2. Serious emaciation 1. Anything other than
3. Permanent lameness or gopher ears on bucks
difficulty in walking 2. Ears other than true
4. Blind or nonfunctioning LaMancha type on does
half or udder
5. Blind teat FRENCH ALPINE
6. Double teat(s) 1. Pendulous ears
7. Extra teat(s) that
interfere with milking NUBIAN
8. Active mastitis or any 1. Upright ears
other cause of abnormal
9. Evidence of hermaphrod- 1. Large (1 1/2"
itism or other inability diameter or more)
to reproduce dark spot in hair
10. Permanent physical de- 2. Pendulous ears
fect, such as navel hernia
11. Crooked face on bucks TOGGENBURG
12. Extra teat or teat(s) 1. Tricolor or piebald
that have been cut off 2. Black bucks
on bucks 3. White stomach
13. Double orifice in (except British
teats of bucks Toggenburgs) on bucks
14. Buck with one testicle 4. Large white spot
or with abnormal testicles (1 1/2" in any
direction) on bucks
5. Pendulous ears

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